Gran Canaria & Chile – Waves, daring, falls, exploits – 2019 & 2020
MOTIVATION AND RESILIENCE
Resilience : in physics, value characterizing the impact resistance of a metal.
Waves, reef, beach breaks, slabs… sometines a wave can be as hard as metal.
Resilience : in psychology, ability to overcome traumatic shocks.
Being resilient means being able to bounce back and rebuild after a difficult time.
Bodyboarding is an extreme sport that exposes the rider to risks, choices, shocks, falls and the need to get up.
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES
Being a bodyboarder asks you to push yourself, feel confident, hold on, never give up.
While some people seem to possess this strength in an innate way, it is never too late to learn to mobilize one’s vital momentum.
Whether you are a rider, a competitor and just a human, you will need resilience at least once in your life…
RESILIENCIA is a film full of motivation, adrenaline, action, conscience and resilience.
The waves force me to be always ready, attentive and focused and to feel both strong and humble.
Thanks to all the contributors :
Film and edition Nicolas Nachaj @pf_bodyboarding
Christian Antunez @vgbnd.media
Nicolas Diaz @nicolasdcm
Alejandro Marote @alemawo
Guillermo Delarue @guiga222
Bruno Dias @vanlife_productions