THE PLEASURE OF SECRET RIDING
I was riding an amazing swell on a sister island in Canarys
Filmed by: Daniel Meana
Edit by: Daniel Meana
At Lazarote – On a secret and sad spot
I WANT TO EDIT THIS VIDEO AS A TRIBUTE TO SANTIAGO CRUZ LUIS.
I am just on the way for a nice free bodyboarding session, with my friend Rafa Medina.
After walking pretty much two hours down the hill, we finally arrive closer to THIS secret wave.
This moment has been in my mind for a long time. It took me a long time to share this terrible happening with you.
This day will be remembered as a dark one in the Canarian bodyboarding history.
As we are getting closer to the spot, Rafa and I can see a boat in the channel and we firstly think there is someone fishing overthere.
As we arrive at the location, there is no one out, no boat and we imagine it is too dry to surf.
Anyway, I decide to go in the water and while I am getting changed, a girl comes to me saying that I should take care as it is super dry. She tells me that a rider touched the reef just before we arrive.
I go into the water and realise that it is actually extremely shallow so the ride may be impossible or really dangerous.
I am surfing for about one hour by myself and as the tide is getting higher more riders arrive as Rafa and few other local guys. Then a man shows up in the line up saying that the rider that has touched the reef few hours before has died from his injury. We are all shocked but we still do not know who is this rider.
When I go back on the beach, later in the afternoon I have like 20 « missed calls » on my phone as people knew I was around.
I finally find out that the rider is Santi, a great bodyboarder from Tenerife. I cannot not believe it.
I remember the sensations I had when I was surfing alone, I was thinking by myself that things happen so fast when Life has decided it is your time to go…
Always in our heart. Ride in peace Santiago Cruz Luis.
Filmed by: Daniel Meana
Edited by: Daniel Meana
Gran Canaria, Galdar, October 2018
The Fronton King 2018 is a World Cup form and is not part of the APB round, following disagreements with the organisers.
So there are few riders of the World Tour but the level is really high, with guests of choice as Dave Hubbard, André Botha and Guillerme Tamega who are not the least.
Above all, there are many canarian riders who know the spot perfectly and are serious challengers.
Among the stages of the World Tour, the Fronton is the one where the local riders have the highest level.
The 2018 edition offers a prize money of 12,000 € to the winner, the strongest in the history of bodyboarding.
For my part, I do not hesitate a minute, with a prize money like this on one of the waves best suited to our sport.
And I want to win.
The organisation and the promotion of the event is perfect, worthy of the world level : live webcasts and comments, interviews, press realise, concert, demonstration in schools…
The fan-zone on the cliff is crowdy and the online audience is high-level .
During the comp, I keep my hand throughout the heats, I’m really focused and motivated to win.
In the semi-finals, I take tamega out with 18,57 pts and I am happy to face Jonathan Vega, a strong canarian rider, in the final.
During the final, I begin with a 7 followed by an 8-pts wave. Jonathan answers me with a 7,1 pts.
I find a good left tube + invert + rollo scoring 9,5 pts. Jonathan is in a combo position.
However, five minutes later I get a huge tube on a solid right and deep barrel catching 10 pts.
When the bell rings, the socre is 19,5 pts for me and 15,2 for Jonathan Vega.
On this tricky and powerful spot, tension and concentration are essential to succeed.
Now the pressure is dropping. Emotion overwhelms me. My heart is full.
Fronton is a kingdom to be conquered constantly…
Click and see the Fronton King 2018 Gallery
Galdàr, Gran Canaria – 20 October 2018
The Fronton King 2018 is a World Cup form and is not part of the APB tour, following disagreements with theorganisers.
So there are few riders of the World Tour but the level is really high.
There are three world champions as Dave Hubbard, André Botha and Guillerme Tamega who are not the least.
Above all, there are many canarian riders who know the spot perfectly and are serious challengers.
Among the stages of the World Tour, the Fronton is the one where the local riders have the highest level.
The 2018 edition offers a prize money of 12,000 € to the winner, the strongest in the history of bodyboarding.
For my part, I do not hesitate a minute, with a prize money like this on one of the waves best suited to our sport.
And I want to win.
The organisation and the promotion of the event is perfect, worthy of the world level : live webcasts and comments, interviews, press realise, concert, demonstration in schools…
The fan-zone on the cliff is crowdy and the online audience is high-level .
During the comp, I keep my hand throughout the heats, I’m really focused and motivated to win.
In the semi-finals, I take Guillerme Tamega out with my 18,57 pts and I am happy to face Jonathan Vega, a talented canarian rider, in the final.
During the final, I begin with a 7 followed by an 8-pts wave. Jonathan answers me with a 7,1 pts.
I find a good left tube + invert + rollo scoring 9,5 pts. Jonathan is in a combo position.
However, five minutes later I get a huge tube on a solid right and deep barrel catching 10 pts.
When the bell rings, the socre is 19,5 pts for me and 15,2 for Jonathan Vega.
On this tricky and powerful spot, tension and concentration are essential to succeed.
Now the pressure is dropping. Emotion overwhelms me. My heart is full.
Fronton is a kingdom to be conquered constantly…
See the FINAL DAY FK 2018 video
Let me ride my best in my playground
Enjoy this short clip when I am riding at my best level in The Canarys where I am living today.
This is the beginning of a big year for me. Not completely involved on the World Tour but totally engaged in my surf…
Filmed by: Alejandro Morán, Jesus de León, Ardiel Jiménez, Igor Sánchez, Pyramid Art Prod y Victor Bilbao.
Music: Chop Off by Future vs System Of A Down
Edit by: Alejandro Morán
Galdar, Gran Canaria – October 2017
For the 2017 edition, I have to defend the crown that I have wun for two years in a row ( 2015 and 2016).
It is a big challenge and I know I am the favorite and the man to shoot down…
I definitely appreciate to compete at El Fronton, there is a very special atmosphere.
First, the local riders have an incredible level and they really enjoy fighting with the world elite.
Second, the inernational riders who come to Galdar, Gran Canaria really enjoy the local lifestyle, the food, the landscapes and the quality of the waves they ride.
Third, the organisation is perfectly well-oiled and the competition site which overlooks the spot is just perfect for both public and judges.
In quarter-final, I compete with Ryan Hardy, Australia. He is a rider who has been inspiring me since I started and the REEFLEX wetsuits brand owner.
I score two good waves (9,33 pts + 9,44 pts) then Ryan in a combo position and he never can overpass me.
In the semi-final against my best friend and rival, Pierre-Louis Costes, I wait more than 10 minutes before taking a wave.
PLC tries to score at the beginning, but the spot is lazy. He takes the lead while I patiently wait for the ocean offering a tonic awakening.
And it comes…
PLC and I are taking the same wave : PL on the right and me on the left. The right wave closes on Piere-Louis while mine on the left allows me a deep 8 pts-tube.
About one minute later, I go one a right for a tube and a big invert scoring 8,83 pts. I let him combo too
The other semi-finalist joining me for the last heat of the day is Jared Houston. I remember that his mother and father are here coming from South Africa.
But in the final, when the tide is high and the waves lazier, with cramps in my legs, Jared Houston resists and wins the title.
It was a good fight and I lend him my crown of King of the Fronton with a good grace.
Jared deserves this victory, as he could catch and optimise the few good scoring waves of the final.
Bravo Jared. Tribute to the Fronton for its superb waves and riders.
AN ENDLESS TUBE
During my last Amaury Academy in Puerto Rico, March 25,2017, I go for a long free-surf session at the Fountain of Youth, Ramey Base.
In the end of the afternoon, I have an insane moment of pure pleasure : a long tube that surprised everyone, me and the photographers… Just look until the last seconds.
I love to share my feelings and sensations after such moments with friends.
The waves are incredible and the riders spirit is so strong and engaged. Love you Puerto Rico.
Filmed by: @xtremeclipspr and @gypseamoon
music: Pretty Lights – Sunday School
edit by:@xtremeclipspr
SHARE MY DAYLY ROUTINE
How to improve your shape and mental strenght for a good ride in your every day life ?
See what Jorge Lekunberri has filmed and edited in Canarys about my daily routine in MOZLINLIVE SERIES.
Home life, training, working and riding my best.
I need a regular effort, a constant concentration, a good SNIPER board and a big motivation in the sourroundings of the perfect waves of El Fronton or El Agujero. Just enjoy.
And never forget : Live your life, don’t dream it.
Thanks to Jorge Lekunberri for shooting and editing.
Hawaii, North Shore 2017
Follow me on a lay-day in Hawaii around the North Shore to document what I get up to in between contest days on the APB Tour.
We are on break waiting for the Pipe Line Pro 2017 restarts.
Food, stretching, fitness, lifestyle with my mate Laury Grenier (RUN).
Never stop keeping focused, but don’t forget to play and enjoy life.
Filmed by APB Tour – 2017
Dakar, Senegal – January 13 to 15, 2017
I fly to Dakar, Senegal for a bodyboard master-class organized by Aymeric Senghor and the club Senegliss.
In this tropical zone, the Atlantic ocean is much warmer than in Europe and riding a bodyboard in warm water always reminds me Reunion Island.